LoJ: #218 (Pre-LiDAR #S/R) / 13,556' UN 13556 "Independence Peak" Formerly UN 13,545

Range › Sawatch Range
Quadrangle › Mt. Champion
Summit Location › Peak Route Icon N 39° 08' 38.79", W 106° 33' 32.51 (Not Field Checked)

Peak Summary

Newly added in 2022 from previous soft-rank status by LIDAR technology, this summit has two basic approaches from the west side and Independence Lake or the east side following the Lake Fork. From the west side, it's a minimum Class 2+ on difficult, steep, gravel and rock terrain. On our ascent, it became brief Class 3 near the summit. The east side approach can be kept at Class 2 but requires a few more miles hiking.

UN 13556 via Independence Lake Route

Class 3
Medium Day // Take a Lunch
RT From Roaring Fork River TH: 6mi / 2,040'
  • Trailhead
    • Roaring Fork River TH

      The name for trail #1996 is "The Lost Man" trail. It has two access points off Highway 82 out of Aspen. The first access is 14 miles east of Aspen and is a large parking area on the north side of the highway, across from the Lost Man Campground. This section of the trail leads up to South Fork Pass and Lost Man Lake. If accessing the Williams Mountains, this is the shortest and easiest access.

      The other access point is 18.5 miles from Aspen, still on Highway 82, at the last switchback before the final climb to the top of Independence Pass. This access, I am calling "The Roaring Fork River" trailhead to distinguish from the Lost Man TH. Parking here is on the north side of the highway at the switchback. Parking is limited here and fills quickly on weekends. If coming from the east slope, you'll need to drive north from Buena Vista or south from Leadville and turn west on Highway 82, drive past the Twin Lakes and continue to the summit of Independence Pass. Drive down west from the summit and the trail head will be at the first switchback you come to.


      Camping

      Most at-large camping along the west side of the Independence Pass road has been shut down, but there are several Forest Service, fee type campgrounds out of Aspen. They are in order starting from the farthest from the TH: Difficult Creek, Weller, Lincoln Gulch and Lost Man. If you're coming from the east slope, you're best off camping at any number of at-large spots on the east side of Independence Pass, in the upper regions of Lake Creek. We like the Graham Creek area where a diversion tunnel comes out and empties into Lake Creek.


      Campsite Locations

      Graham Creek › N 39° 04' 53.35", W 106° 32' 18.13"
    Peak Icon Route Map Photos

    Route Info UN 13556 via Independence Lake

    Route Description

    Year Climbed: 2022

    The approach to reach this summit from this side of Independence Pass offers the shortest mileage and lessor elevation gain, however, the actual route up the peak is decidedly more difficult from this side. We'll also argue for a logical "nick-name" for this summit, even though not needed, of "Independence Peak" because of the close proximity of the lake of the same name. If using the USGS 1960 quad for this approach hike, please note that the trail location is no longer accurate. The 2016 Forest Service map available on CalTopo more accurately represents the trail up to Independence Lake.

    From the parking area along Co 82, hike north along the west side of the stream and you'll soon reach a stream crossing of the unnamed fork descending from Linkins Lake. This could be your first problem during runoff season, but usually not difficult. Continue north on the well-used trail and in about .5 - .6 mile it will cross to the east side of the Roaring Fork. As the trail approaches a flatter, marshy area, it swings eastward at 12,200 ft., well away from the stream to gain an upper, broad bench area below Independence Lake. It's right at 2 miles to reach the lake. In early season, the hike up to here can be rather wet and there are plenty of willows along the way as well.

    Exit the trail shortly before the lake and walk NE and eastward across tundra terrain with scattered boulders to the base of the peak, located directly east of the east end of the lake. This tundra rea is quite attractive and wildflowers abound along with tundra tufts, small tarns and a rugged backdrop. Identify the first saddle south of the summit. This saddle can be accessed by a broad couloir. This couloir is very steep and filled with loose rock and two-steps-forward, one-step back gravel. It is quite tedious. Before reaching the couloir, there is a rock bench area with a steep face of boulders to overcome. Earlier season offers the advantage of snow in the short gullies to gain the relatively flat bench before heading on up the couloir. Since it faces directly west, it tends to melt out early in the season so don't count on more snow to ease the ascent. When we did this, we started out with the intent of following the couloir all the way to the saddle, but the higher we climbed, the more the loose terrain forced us left and eventually into another, more narrow couloir higher up that offered slightly better footing. Pick your poison. If you veer left as we did, this couloir will terminate at the base of a sheer cliff face, maybe 100 - 150 feet below the summit. At the base of the cliff, you could make a left turn and follow the remainder of the couloir up to a small saddle along the NW ridge coming down from the summit. If you go up this, you'll have more of the NW ridge to navigate with some 3rd class conditions and exposure.

    Back at the base of the sheer cliff, we noticed a narrow, tundra-rock ramp leading up to the right. A short little Class3 move gained this ramp and we followed it up and to our surprise, it worked its way around the sheer cliff and deposited us in another short narrow gully that we followed to the left. It broke out at yet another small saddle on the NW ridge, but closer to the summit. Once at the saddle, we headed for the summit, crossing the head of another couloir, then scrambling up a brief 3rd class rock wall (exposure was minimal) to emerge a short stroll from the actual summit. The view back down the NW ridge confirmed our suspicions that this ridge, if accessed from farther north, would offer some 3rd to 4th class work to get around some of the rocky outcrops. We also observed that the south ridge leading to the summit from the saddle between it and Twining Peak may not be all that difficult except for one section, hence, from Independence Lake, you could also gain that saddle and follow the south ridge to the summit. Gaining the saddle would also involve dealing with some steep talus as well, but perhaps less of it.

    While on the summit, we studied an approach utilizing the Lake Fork trail on the east side of the peak and came to the conclusion that this would be the technically easier way to reach this summit. We did not go and actually hike it from that direction, but using the information we gathered from two other couples who did it that way, we offer a second route description that Front range climbers may find not only easier, but also saving the drive time over Independence Pass.

    Stronger hikers could complete this climb and be back to their vehicle in time for lunch, however, the vast tundra terrain offers some great views and beautiful sights including wildflowers. Though not exactly "neighbors," if weather allows and you have the time, the two Geissler summits could be included in the day or even what is identified on the USGS map as UN 13001 (now UN 13006 per Lidar). For the return, simply retrace you route back to the start.

"Pile up enough tomorrows, and you'll soon find yourself with a lot of empty yesterdays. Professor Harold Hill - "The Music Man"
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