In attempting this summit, in our research, we found three basic approaches used by others. Gerry & Jennifer Roach had come in from Copper Lake and done the climb along the east summit ridge. Some others, like 13ergirl and her gang had gone straight up to the summit from the south flank and then there was an approach suggested to us by Mark and Terry Schmalz of Grand Junction that utilized the great SW couloir which is most easily accessed from Rustler Gulch. This last is the route we chose to follow. A link to that report will be provided below. The account that follows is derived primarily from our written report following the climb:
We headed up the trail/old road from our campsite in Rustler Gulch into the upper reaches of Rustler Gulch, and left the trail about where it crosses the main creek around timberline. The first mile and a half up the valley, we found the slopes just laden with wildflowers of all sorts. It was distracting to our main purpose that day and we had to pull ourselves away from taking photographs of the magnificent display.
As we left the trail, we found an old mining site with a large machine – probably a pump of some kind, and the remains of an old stone building. From here, we decided to utilize as many tundra-covered slopes as we could to gain the base of the SW couloir instead of going directly to the base of it and having to climb even further in the boulder/rubble that filled it all the way to the head. After about 600 feet of moderately steep gain and contouring over some to the couloir, we arrived at a point where we would have to drop in or it would be too late because a developing cliff would hinder our dropping in. We took a break here and then launched into the couloir by downclimbing through a weakness in the cliff. We were now committed (or perhaps, should be “committed”). For the next 1,000 feet, we trudged upward through medium sized rubble and boulders, taking extreme care to not send a rock down on each other. This was a good place for a helmet and we used them this day. Further up the gully, a sidewall developed that was smooth and highly angled on the right side. It would have made some nice technical climbing. A ways down from the saddle at the head of the gully, we paused for another break and also took numerous photos of each other to try and convey the steepness and ruggedness of this couloir.
At the head of the couloir, we turned and followed the west end of the summit ridge to a hindering notch, which from Mark’s report, we knew would be coming. Without rope and gear, it did not appear we could safely descend the notch, then re-ascend on the other side, so we did as Mark S. had done and headed down the north slope of the peak, following the edge of another couloir until we could find a weakness in the bordering cliffband and drop into and cross over the couloir. This weakness happened to be just about where the snow ended that filled the couloir. So we crossed over without much difficulty and began to re-ascend back to the summit ridge. This next section would be the most difficult. It was steeper than the couloir and covered in loose rock waiting to rain down on your partners below or send you sliding down uncontrollably. It seemed to require more time than usual to regain the ridge and when we did, we found ourselves just a short walk from the summit of Precarious Peak. Having entered the SW couloir at 8:07AM, and turned out of the same at 8:50, it had taken another 1:10 almost, to arrive at the summit.
We did find a register and recorded our ascent, took the obligatory photos and admired and surveyed the view around us, taking particular note of the remaining two summits we might attempt this day. Then we headed back down, discarding any notion of going down the south face directly and opting for the supposed safety of the route we had ascended. So with care, we descended the north face until we could cross the couloir where we had done before, then re-ascend back to the head of the SW couloir. The descent of the SW couloir went quickly and safely with no serious injuries or slips or falls. At the base of the gully, we contoured along the base of the south facing cliffs of the peak and dropped over into the boulder filled basin at about 12,300 or 12,400 feet. At 12:15, we paused here for a lunch and water. The weather was holding nicely and we felt there was a good chance of climbing the other two summits, so after a 20 minute or longer break, we struck out to see if we could make the other summits. (Cassi and UN13,260)
Links to other information, routes & trip reports for this peak that may be helpful.