For the Peak G approach, read the "Approach" tab and especially the section that deals with continuing up the trail from the Mount Powell trail junction to Upper Piney Lake. Our description provides some campsite hints if you want to backpack into here and the following description begins at a campsite we utilized about 1.5 mile SE of the Mt. Powell trail turnoff. From our campsite, we continued on the unmaintained trail which stayed on the east side of the valley and meandered southeast through forest and meadows. The best directions we had for climbing Peak G had us continue up valley to close to a minor creek and drainage that descends southwest from the saddle between Peaks F and G. It was a little difficult to locate the small creek draining from the basin below Peaks F & G as described. We had to stop several times and orient ourselves using avalanche chutes across the valley as our main bearing. But we did locate the creek and began our main ascent just to the north of it. To get here, the trail we followed was along the edge of a large meadow in the center of the valley. The mile or so stroll through here got our boots and pants thoroughly wet again. At times, the trail would branch to avoid some of the marshier areas. Some of these other branches we followed on the way back out. At times, the choices become a little confusing, but for the most part, they all come back together. These coordinates should get you to an open meadow at the foot of that drainage: N 39° 43' 14.50" W 106° 19' 53.66"
The main ascent is insanely steep. In just a fraction over a horizontal mile, you gain about 2,600 feet. You do the math! Upon leaving the main trail, you must first do some serious bushwhacking through a lot of fallen logs, etc. After a short distance of that, things improve as you hike steeply up through forest, following faint game trails. These trails will lead up past a cliff system and then back over to the creek where you can hike on the north side all the way up into the tundra and rock basin below the peak. After an exhausting hour of this hiking, you will reach the last group of trees in the basin and can continue a little beyond that to a point where according to the contours, the steepness relents just a little at around 12,000 ft. Take a break on some large boulders, which is about the only place you can find with any secure footing. From here on, almost all of the remaining ascent will be on broken rock. While taking a break, study the mountain above and possible routes. The large couloir that leads to the saddle between F and G is quite obvious, but it looks unrelentingly steep and rocky and not very inviting. However, that is a route that some choose to take and correctly done goes at no more than Class 4. Well to the right of that saddle, there is another couloir, that lower down certainly appears rocky and difficult, but up towards its head, appears to lessen in difficulty and even offer a tundra covered slope that leads to the summit ridge. It was our estimation and hope that this couloir would lead us to a point on the summit ridge, just south of the higher, north summit. It turns out, we were wrong in our estimation of where it would come out. A little more careful study of the map would have led to the conclusion that this couloir would bring us out just south of the southern summit and just north of the 13,129 “Black” benchmark.
Head on up this couloir with a difficult middle section but becoming easier higher up. We found a number of conditions, all the way from large, broken, unstable rocks to sand and gravel higher up where we had to use ice axes to plunge into the sand to help stabilize our footing. After another hour of climbing, reach that smoother looking tundra area at the head of the couloir and “stroll” to the main ridge. Make a left turn to reach the Peak G south summit, which appears to be only a hundred yards or less away and less than 200 feet in gain. It's an easy stroll to that summit, and probably the easiest thing you do on this ascent. The higher north summit lies along a rugged looking ridge. Looking along the ridge, you will see is a jumble of broken rock, great, fractured blocks and a tedious traverse that will require considerable time even though the actual distance is probably less than a quarter mile.
As you initially start out, you will quickly reach a place where some 4-point scrambling up a short wall will be required. When you reach what you may expect to be the summit you will see that there is still farther to go. The ridge itself is kind of entertaining. There were some times we remained on the crest and other times we dropped on one side or the other and then regained it. Exactly what we did would be impossible to describe, but there were a few cairns along the way to help guide us. In all, it took almost a half hour to achieve the true summit which was a rocky, uncomfortable place with a large cairn built to a sharp point. You may want to take a number of pictures, especially of Peak C to the north and of the “Ripsaw” connecting ridge.
For the descent, some may wish to continue north along the ridge to the saddle between F and G, but a careful study of this section of ridge will reveal further difficulties. We knew from one account it was not wise to drop immediately down from here and the steep couloirs certainly offered no temptation. So our final decision was to proceed back along the ridge and descend the way we had come up. This meant another 20 – 30 minutes of ridge work, trying the best we could to retrace our route. We succeeded fairly well in accomplishing that and overall, the ridge is mostly stable and an entertaining scramble.
Back at the south summit, walk easily down to the saddle above the couloir you came up up and then begin the arduous, knee-bashing descent in sand, gravel, rock, scree, and sporadic tundra. Near the bottom of the descent swing a little more north to intersect the trail in an easier fashion. This helps avoid some of the more difficult bushwhacking of the morning. Another 20 – 25 minutes of walking along the multiple trails brought us back to the campsite we had used.
Links to other information, routes & trip reports for this peak that may be helpful.