LoJ: #349 (G & M: #347) / 13,362' Engelmann Peak

Note: In writing up this route we have found difficulty in finding map data that seems to correspond to how our written account describes our climb. The FS Topo map from 2016 appears to show the road that turns off to the left that we describe taking. However the coordinates for that appear to match up with a narrow avalanche gully that comes down off the north ridge of Engelmann just north of the summit. While the USGS map shows this very narrow gully, the FS Topo map does not. To further confuse things, we are reasonably certain that we came out a little south of the Engelmann summit, which again does not seem to jive with the road route to the left as shown on the FS Topo map. That would tend to bring you out on the ridge north of the summit. Thus - use these directions and our route on the map cautiously. What would probably be the most reliable thing to do is to head up the main Ruby Creek trail/road, take the first road turning off to the left that you see and find the old cabin. From there, most any thought-out route will get you up to Englemann.

To begin this route, park as indicated in the trailhead directions at a location just north of where Ruby Creek crosses the road that heads back to the Hassell Lake trailhead. An older road takes out from there that heads SSE, contouring uphill through heavy forest. For the first mile the road is a little rocky but fairly easy walking. There's a towering waterfall that will come into view on a side fork of Ruby Creek. In less than a mile, you will come to a fork in the road. The fork that continues straight ahead will continue up Ruby Creek to the south, then turn west to switchback several times up the east flank of the NE ridge of Woods Peak. The left fork is what we chose to follow mainly because it appeared to head in the general direction of Englemann. We came to what appeared to be irrigation hoses that were being used to water the top of an old mound of tailings. Strange. We continued to follow the old road around the tailings and northward toward what appeared to be a private cabin area. There did not appear to be any occupants present, but it was clear that the cabin was recently inhabited. We avoided the property and headed up through thinning forest to gain a minor, west ridge of Engelmann.

Hike up the ever steepening ridge and eventually emerge out of the woods at a pleasant timberline area (where we spotted a lone, bull elk). Continue on up the ridge, leaving the trees behind and hike up steeper tundra. There is nothing difficult to report about the hike other than the steepness and having to work without trail through the forest. The minor ridge will bring you to the summit plateau. Hike over to the summit on flower-strewn tundra. It took us 2:05 to cover the 3,100 feet of elevation to the top.

At the top, looking south there stretches a vast area of tundra leading over to Robeson and Bard, and to the southwest, there's a great view of Hassell. Return by your ascent route. We managed to find our way back to the vicinity of the old cabin, picked up the old roadbed that took us back to the main road by Ruby Creek and then on out. Round-trip time was about 4 hours for us. We did find some nice Jacob's Ladder to photograph and in mid-July, many wildflowers were coming into bloom, however, this overall route did not offer as nice an assortment as Hassell Peak.