LoJ: Not Ranked / 13,105' South Twilight Peak

North Twilight Peak will be sequenced with Twilight and South Twilight for a half-day route from a base camp at Crater Lake. Some sources suggest working around to the SE side of the lake and heading SE through some willows to a small pond at 11,750 ft., and then from there, turning SW and heading up a broad NE ridge toward N. Twilight's east ridge. While that route goes easily, you can short cut it some by walking from a campsite on the west shore of the lake around to the south end, then heading directly uphill through trees for a while, emerging into an inviting, open basin of scattered low trees, grass and rock outcrops.

A little further up the open, grassy basin, you should spot a trail that appears at about 12,200 feet and follows along the edge of a NE running ridge. The trail ascends steeply following just east of that northeast ridge. The trail will lead into a steep gully that then intersects the east ridge, well above any of the lower obstacles, at about 12,800 ft. You will now be about ¼ mile east of a prominent notch visible from below. Cross one minor notch and continue to the more prominent one. A year or two earlier, when some friends of ours had reached this notch, it was full of snow and they felt it was too exposed to continue, so they turned back. When we came to the notch, there was no snow and it was an easy matter to just drop down some on the north side and then re-ascend on the other side of the notch. Since our climb was in early September, it would seem prudent to at least have an ice axe for this notch, if climbing earlier in the summer.

While the lower climb out of the basin is mostly on tundra, you will now be on a tundra-rock mix. Continue hiking directly along the ridge after the notch toward the now rocky, and fairly flat summit. This is an elongated summit of smaller to medium rubble. The highest point will be toward the western end. Soak in the magnificent view, especially of Engineer Mountain to the west, then plot your route over to Twilight Peak.

The main problem with Twilight Peak comes, according to some sources, along the north ridge and near the summit. Studying the peak from North Twilight you can see another “notch” problem but can not really tell what will be the best way to negotiate it. So descend about 300 feet down to the connecting saddle, passing a large cairn made of white quartz, and begin the ascent up Twilight's north ridge for a brief while, on tundra and small scree. Hike up the easy lower ridge section and progress to within 100 or 150 feet of the prominent notch. Watch carefully for a faint path leading off the ridge and contouring to the right, off the main ridge (about where the tundra plays out). Follow the path (or make your own contour path) over to an outcrop overlooking the deep gash that comes down from the notch above. The path descends about 75 feet into the gash. The descent is a little dicey. Once in the steep and narrow couloir, there is really only one immediate exit possibility. A very steep and narrow, secondary couloir heads toward the summit, climbing out of the main couloir. Going up it involves some 3rd class climbing on mostly solid rock with some small tundra benches interspersed. (See photo gallery) It was a little exposed, but we never felt too uncomfortable so we scrambled on up at least 150 vertical feet. Near the top, we chose a right fork in the couloir and this brought us out on a much easier slope for a stroll to the summit. The left fork probably goes just as easily. All in all, this was easier than we expected. It took us 45 minutes from the North summit.

Once you're done with the mesmerizing view of the Needle Mountains to the west and a rest break, it's time to head back. From here, you could retrace your route back toward North Twilight, down its east ridge and back to Crater Lake. But we decided to press on to the southeast, descending Twilight Peak and heading toward South Twilight, which is unranked. The traverse is easy and takes only about 15 minutes. There is about a 200 foot gain to the summit where you can spend some additional time studying how to ascend West Needle, either this day or the next. If not going on to West Needle Mtn. at this time, then much of the return route we describe here will become your approach to West Needle the next day.