LoJ: #221 (Pre-LiDAR #233) / 13,552' UN 13552 Formerly UN13537

Range › Elks Range
Quadrangle › Maroon Bells
Summit Location › Peak Route Icon N 39° 00' 53.16", W 106° 52' 35.88" (Not Field Checked)

Peak Summary

A tedious and difficult Class 3 ascent on typical rotten Elk range rock located above Conundrum Hot Springs. Lidar changed elevation from 13,537 to 13,552 ft.

UN13,552 East Face Couloir Route

Class 3
Medium Day // Take a Lunch
RT From Pearl Pass/Twin Lakes Access: 9.4 mi / 2,750'
RT From Twin Lakes : 3 mi / 1,350'
From Twin Lakes: 1.50 mi / 1,350' (One-Way)
  • Trailhead
    • Pearl Pass/Twin Lakes Access TH

      From the Town of Gunnison: Turn north at the center of town on HWY 135. Pass through Almont and continue toward Crested Butte. About 2 miles before reaching the town, turn right onto CR738 which also becomes FR738. This is locally known as the "Pearl Pass Road." The road starts out paved, then changes to graded gravel. It initially passes through a subdivision. Before turning off the highway, you'll have outstanding views of Teocalli Mtn. Passenger cars can make it in the first 4 - 5 miles to a little past the junction where the East River comes in. Just about the time FR 738 begins to gain elevation, there is a primitive camp area on the right. Passenger cars should be parked here. Higher clearance vehicles and 4WD can continue north. Stay right at the next road intersection in about a mile, continuing on FR738. The road will drop down briefly to a low water crossing of West Brush Creek. Continue driving another 4.5 miles appx. to the Twin Lakes trailhead parking which turns off the main road to the left. If only driving in to climb Teocali, it is not necessary to drive all the way to the Twin Lakes TH. There is a primitive campsite on the west side of the creek at these coordinates: N 38° 56' 26.55 W 106° 51' 36.78". Elevation 10,100 ft. This is about 1.1 mile south of the Twin Lakes TH. An indistinct road turns off to the left and leads down to cross the creek with the campsite being on a bench just above the creek at the coordinates above. If unable to ford the creek, then it's possible to car-camp where this road turns off,


      There are some good, primitive campsites right at the trailhead with some protective trees. You may find other weekend adventurers camped here. Also, see the coordinates provided above for a possible campsite before reaching the Twin Lakes TH that can serve as the TH for hiking Teocali.

    Approach Map Photos
    • From Pearl Pass/Twin Lakes Access TH via Twin Lakes

      Note: This backpack approach may not only be used for UN13,550 and peaks in that immediate area, but also for the line of summits bordering Conundrum Creek as far north as Hunter Peak. Since Conundrum Creek and hot springs is a very popular and now regulated destination backpack typically accessed from Aspen and the road to Ashcroft, the access we are suggesting here will avoid the crowds, have a higher starting elevation, provide access to even more summits and offer less competition for campsites.

      From the trailhead, hike NW on trail # 402. Initially, you'll have to find a way to cross Middle Brush Creek - possibly using your vehicle or wading. Go north up the hillside some and then turn NW on the trail to the Twin Lakes. It's appx. 3.2 miles to the north end of the northernmost lake at 11,580 ft. with 1,400 feet of gain. The trail crosses into the Maroon-Snowmass Wilderness. Self-registration is required for a permit for overnight visitation. The trail starts out on the east side of the creek but crosses over to the west side a half mile below the lakes. It starts out crossing open terrain, passes through some higher altitude forest and goes through any number of willows as it approaches the lakes. In 2000, when the trail crossed over to the west side of the drainage, it was so difficult to follow in the wet and dense willows, we abandoned efforts to do so and blazed our own path, avoiding some of the willow-bashing. Perhaps it has now been improved.

      Trail #402 shows on Forest Service maps as playing out above the Twin Lakes. We actually found usable trail all the way to the saddle WNW of the lakes at 12,500 ft., passing through lush, flowering vegetation on the way up. It was shortly after the saddle that the trail began to play out in the tundra benches above the northern end of West Brush Creek. But it makes little difference. In this location, you can find several campsite opportunities and small tarns for water supply by working your way west from the pass above Twin Lakes. The views and the solitude are outstanding. It is also easy to access "Coffeepot Pass," about a mile NW from the Twin Lakes pass and drop into Conundrum Basin. It's an easy backpack (except for the altitude) over mostly tundra. A short distance down on the north side of Coffeepot Pass, you can pick up Trail #1981 as it drops in from Triangle Pass. This trail drops down to Conundrum Hot Springs almost 2 miles down from Coffeepot Pass, and can serve as your access for Hunter, Keefe and Hilliard Peaks. The trail goes all the way out to CR15 between Aspen and Ashcroft. To avoid possible overcrowded campsite conditions at Conundrum Hot Springs, try camping about a mile up the trail from the springs in the upper basin on some of the tundra benches below the east flank of UN13,216. It may be a 20 - 30 minute walk down to the springs, but you'll enjoy a great deal more privacy and solitude. If packing in from Brush Creek & Twin Lakes, total mileage to this campsite will be about 5 miles with 2,400 feet of elevation gain.

      This link from the US Forest Service may provide more information about trail #1981 to Conundrum Hot Springs: Conundrum Creek Trail #1981 - Hiking Guide


      You may be able to find some primitive campsites in the vicinity of the lower Twin Lake. We did not camp at the lakes. We camped well above the lakes on a higher tundra bench area where the trail plays out in the tundra, since we were here to climb multiple summits over several days. In addition, we also camped on a flatter tundra/grassy bench area north of Coffeepot Pass by about 3/4 mile, well off the trail and east of the UN13,216 summit at an elevation of around 12,200 ft.

      Open This Approach in a New Window
    Peak Icon Route Map

    Route Info UN13,552 East Face Couloir

    Route Description

    Year Climbed: 2000

    This route description begins from a high campsite above Conundrum Hot Springs at an elevation of about 12,200 feet and directly east of UN13,216. From the campsite, walk NNW over mostly tundra to a saddle between UN13,216 and UN13,552. From the saddle, one could possibly follow the ridge north to the summit. With no beta to go on, when we examined that ridge from UN13,216, we had concluded that the upper portion might entail some 4th class work, so we altered our plan to contour from the saddle along the east face of UN13,552 aiming for a yellow rock couloir that climbed all the way through to the summit ridge, just north of the summit. This appeared to be the only non-technical access from the east side of the peak. The initial traverse/contour took us up a broad, grassy slope and around the broad, east facing flank of the peak. Beyond there, things became much more tedious.

    Once around the flank, you'll encounter boulders and loose rock of every kind requiring a great deal of care. Then, once in the yellow couloir, things will not improve. The gully is about as steep as it can get and not have everything slide away. The higher you climb, the more difficult footing will become. Helmets are highly recommended here. After fighting your way up for nearly 500 feet, you'll finally and gratefully emerge on the summit ridge, just north of the summit. Turn left and scramble over easier boulders to finish.

    To return, drop back down the same yellow couloir and descend until it plays out in a field of rocks and boulders. The entire descent will be riddled with falling rocks. From a nearly level spot around 12,800 feet, turn south and contour your way back to your high campsite in Conundrum Basin or drop down to the springs to soak your weary legs.

Warning! Climbing peaks can be dangerous! By using this site and the information contained herein, you're agreeing to use common sense, good judgement, and to not hold us liable nor sue us for any reason. Legal Notice & Terms of Use.
Donate to Climb13ers.com ›