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LoJ: #307 (G & M: #306) / 13,420' Eagles Nest

Range › Gore Range
Quadrangle › Mount Powell
Summit Location › Peak Route Icon N 39° 46' 27.13", W 106° 21' 04.40" (Not Field Checked)
Neighboring Peaks › Peak Icon Mount Powell Peak Icon "Peak C"

Peak Summary

Eagle's Nest is the second highest summit in the Gore Range and the northernmost 13er for that range. Access to the peak is lengthy. It can be done as a long day hike form Piney Lake or as part of a three day backpack that could net four 13ers, including Mt. Powell, Eagle's Nest, Peak C and Peak G. The Piney River trailhead is accessible to most passenger vehicles. The climb of Eagle's Nest is a Class 3 scramble.

Eagle's Nest South Ridge/West Slope Route

Class 3
backpacker icon + Peak Icon
Backpack + Medium Day
RT From Piney River Ranch: 13 mi / 5,160'
RT From 11,225 Campsite: 4.5 mi / 3,300'
  • Trailhead Photos
    • Piney River Ranch Trailhead

      From I-70, take Exit 176 for Vail. Take your first right thru the roundabout onto North Frontage Road (you will now be traveling on the north side of the interstate and driving west.) Go .9 mile and turn right onto Red Sandstone Road and follow the paved road about 0.7 miles, past two switchbacks. Just before the sharp curve to the right (3rd switchback) the dirt road you need to take will be a left turn on the curve here. There should be a large green Forest Service sign indicating this is Red Sandstone Road #700 (Reset your odometer here). As you head generally north on this road, it will have frequent sharp curves and changes in direction as it crosses several drainages.
      Continue for about 2.7 miles to a fork in the road at Lost Lake Road (#786). Keep left here to stay on Red Sandstone Road. 

      Around mile 6.5 you will pass Red and White Mtn Road/FSR 734 which forks to the left - Stay straight. At mile 6.7 you will pass another fork to the left for Muddy Pass/Moniger Road. Stay straight. Immediately after, the road begins to drop on two switchbacks down a forested side of the mountain to the Piney River. 

      When you are just over two miles from the ranch, you will cross a small bridge over Piney River. Follow the road a short distance where you will see a sign for Piney Lake two miles ahead. Turn right at the sign for Piney Lake. To the left at this turn is a trailhead parking area. 

      The dirt road, now #701, becomes a little rougher, but still passable. Along the right hand side of this road is a split rail fence in somewhat poor condition that is apparently intended to prevent camping in just any location. There are a few openings in this fence that allow access to a campsite. We only counted three or four - all of this a change form previous years. You will reach a Forest Service parking lot on the right at mile 10.65 before the entrance to Piney River Ranch. If you are only hiking, and not a ranch guest, park in this lot. The trailhead is on the north side of the parking lot (left side of the parking lot as one faces the Piney River Ranch entrance). Allow up to 45 minutes to make this drive.


      Camping

      At the crossing of Piney River there is a large, open area and just after crossing the river, there's a trailhead parking area that could serve for car-camping. Along the two mile stretch of road after that crossing that leads up to the ranch, there are now a limited number of primitive site opportunities. However, we offer the following warning. On one of our two visits here on a Friday evening, we found most every possible site taken and there were boisterous campers who kept us up much of the night with loud music, partying and even shooting off pistols in the middle of the night. On our second visit and overnight camp (which was on a Thursday evening this time) we were awakened at 1:00 AM in the morning by two very drunk men attempting to paddle a canoe down the Piney River in the dark. For 20 minutes or longer, we listened to their loud voices as they would get out of the canoe to get around some obstacle, splash around in the water, stumble, and then get back in the canoe. Eventually they were out of earshot, but our impression of this place is that it's the "in" spot for partiers.

      If you want some peace and quiet, you may want to search for a primitive site somewhere along the Red Sandstone Road before coming to the Piney River crossing. There are some spots visible on Google Earth and on the two FS roads mentioned above that turn off to the left just before the descent down the mountainside to cross Piney River. Just be careful to not end up on private property. A spot we used in 2020 was located perhaps less than a half mile from the Piney River crossing. See coordinates below. 


      Campsite Locations

      Piney River Camp › N 39° 42' 23.39", W 106° 25' 40.34"
      Elevation 9,275 ft.
    Approach Map
    • From Piney River Ranch TH via 11,225 Campsite

      When we first climbed Mt. Powell by using this approach in 1994, the Piney River Trail (#1885) stayed low in the valley past the lake and then gradually gained above the valley bottom, passing through marshes, until it took you to the turn in the valley to the south. This is what the 1970 USGS map shows. But the trail has since been revised so that now, the trail from the trailhead parking area begins immediately to gain some elevation and continues to remain above the lake and a lower lake trail until after the lake. The trail continues up valley, with a few switchbacks to help gain elevation and remains well above the valley bottom and the Piney River until you approach the falls that most day hikers want to see. A little before the falls, the trail loses some elevation. Do not accidentally get misled onto Trail #1889 that takes off to the left not too far past Piney Lake. That trail goes to the Soda Lakes.

      From where the trail has dropped down closer to the Piney River for viewing the falls & cascades, hike on upstream a little more (about 5 minutes) until you locate a large, vertically stacked cairn marking a trail that turns off on the left and leads up to the basin below Mt. Powell and Peak C. There are two possible turnoffs and this is the first. A fallen tree somewhat obscures where the trail takes off. Coordinates are: N 39° 44' 13.0"  W 106° 21' 38.2". A few more minutes of hiking on the main trail continuing east brings you to an older turnoff. This trail intersection is in a nice forested area of conifers and a few medium-sized boulders to sit on, and even without a cairn, the trail is quite visible. It was approximately 3.2 miles from the parking area. Coordinates for this second turnoff are: N 39° 44' 15.8"  W 106° 21' 32.9".  The only thing confusing about it is the initial direction it takes, first heading north and switchbacking west before turning abruptly east to climb steeply into the aforementioned basin. This particular trail starts out easy enough to follow, but after a few hundred feet of gain in the forest, it crosses into some highly vegetated areas where it becomes easily lost in the abundant corn lilies, willows, Queen Anne’s Lace, and assorted other flowers. It is very steep through here and a struggle with full packs.

      After a somewhat swampy section, the trail becomes more visible again as it makes a very steep gain up an open bench. At the top of this, it finally relents in the steep gain and you may pass an early, but small campsite in some open trees to the right. We wanted to get closer to our two peaks we would climb from here though, so we continued on, sweating freely in the morning sun as we crossed through more open meadows and made one more gain to the west end of the upper basin. This basin that lies at about 11,225 ft., is bordered on the south by the steep slope of a great, rock glacier. It is a relatively flat area of a few acres, with a pleasant stream flowing through, abundant flowers, and surrounded by dramatic peaks, Peak C taking center stage because of its towering appearance above. We arrived here in about 3.5 hours from the trailhead and immediately set up tents as we were greeted by first three, and then a small herd of mountain goats. We had to keep an eye on them as we set things up and were concerned they might take off with some of our gear, but they were mostly just interested in our urine. This campsite makes a very good location to launch off for Mt. Powell, Eagle's Nest and Peak C, all of which can be climbed in just a few hours from this location, with Eagle's Nest taking the longest.

      For a Peak G approach and Upper Piney Lake from where you can climb The Spider (UN 12,692), West Partner Peak, Peaks P & J  & H, continue on the main Upper Piney River Trail as it turns SE. Shortly, you will cross a major tributary on fallen logs that drains the basin below Peak C & Mt. Powell. This trail is fairly easy to follow for the next 1.5 mile but then does not receive much use so it begins to fade out and become more difficult to follow. About 15 minutes past the turnoffs for the Peaks C/Mt. Powell, the trail passes by a very nice campsite. A signed carved into a tree there calls this location the "Horse Collar Camp" and indicates it was established in 1923. It's in a grove of conifers and has plenty of level spots for tents, a fire ring and logs to sit on and is close to the river. Coordinates are: N 39° 44' 08.4"  W 106° 21' 01.3". Continuing on from there, the "Vail East" USGS map shows the trail terminating abruptly in an open meadow at about 10,260 ft., having crossed to the west side of the creek and more than a mile past the aforementioned campsite. This is not accurate. 

      Trails Illustrated # 108 shows the trail as an unmaintained trail. This is accurate, but it still misleads one into thinking it will cross the river and then recross a little later. This also is no longer accurate. The trail now remains on the east side of the Piney River all the way to Upper Piney Lake. Beyond the unnamed, small lake at 11,560 ft., the trail becomes even more difficult to follow, but it at least leads directly to this unnamed lake. The last mile before that unnamed little lake, it does a lot of weaving around obstacles and there are at least two times that there appear to be alternate trails. There are many fallen trees to cross. For Peak G, having revisited this area in 2020, we would suggest setting up a campsite at the Horse Collar Camp mentioned previously and doing an out and back day hike to Peak G from there. Above the Horse Collar Camp, we did not see any good campsites until you arrive at the unnamed lake, which could also serve as a camp to reach Peaks G, F, and H. We should also mention that along the way to the unnamed lake, the trail comes very close to the Piney River on two occasions. The first time is fairly brief. The second time, it follows closely along the creek for some time. At one point, there's a small cairn that indicates a place to head up the embankment on the left and leave following the creek, or you can continue for a few more hundred yards until the trail abruptly turns left and climbs steeply up the embankment for about 20 feet before leveling out some. At the unnamed lake, there is good camping in the open meadow or up on a rock outcrop that overlooks that meadow. You will see a minor trail turning off for that outcrop shortly before arriving at the meadow. 

      Another item to correct, Trails Illustrated shows the trail going around the east side of the unnamed lake at 11,560 ft. This too is inaccurate. When the trail enters the open meadow on the west side of the lake, head over to the right, cross the small stream that serves as the lake outlet and head over to a rocky outcrop with trees still on the west shore of the lake. You'll pick the trail up thee. It does some more ascending after this point to reach the elevation of the Upper Piney Lake and levels out well before the lake, crossing marshy, vegetated areas and rock outcrops. It tends to be quite marshy along the eastern shore of the lake. The setting is beautiful and outstanding. Well worth the effort. Classic Colorado! 


      Camping

      Our preferred campsite is in the small basin described above. See the coordinates provided, however you may find others camped here as well. There are no trees close by.

      Campsite Locations

      11,225 Campsite Peak C/Mt. Powell N 39° 44' 57.28", W 106° 20' 51.01"
      Elevation 11,225 This campsite used for Peak C, Mt. Powell & Eagle's Nest.
      Horse Collar Camp N 39° 44' 08.4", W 106° 21' 01.3"
      Elevation 10,075 ft. This camp can be used primarily for Peaks F & G.
      Unnamed Lake Camp N 39° 43' 05.2", W 106° 19' 31.3"
      Elevation 10,575 ft. This camp can be used for peaks around Upper Piney Lake including "The Spider," West Partner, Peaks P & J.

      Open This Approach in a New Window
    Peak Icon Route Map Photos

    Route Info Eagle's Nest South Ridge/West Slope

    Route Description

    Year Climbed: 2006

    The ascent route for Eagle's Nest begins at the suggested campsite at 11,225 ft. near the foot of Mt. Powell. Consult the Piney River Trailhead and Approach for details in how to reach that campsite location.

    From the proposed campsite head NNW up a valley of mostly tundra with rock outcrops mixed in and some talus to a pass located between Mt. Powell to the east and the impressive UN12,626 to the west. We called this Grappel Pass. Not sure where that name came from. Another source called it "Game Pass" because the mountain goats have established a trail to it. Head north on over the pass and begin losing elevation, but instead of dropping hard to the left into the principle drainage, if you veer a little right, you can pick up a bench-like slope that parallels the Powell-Eagle's Nest ridge and gradually loses elevation to the north. This bench runs fairly straight and keeps you below the cliffs and talus rubble of the ridge above to your right. It is quite visible on Google Earth. Along the way, it passes by rocky outcrops, and there may be some willow-bashing but it at least keeps you out of the even more willowy drainage below. Walk nearly a mile north along this bench.

    The only information we had at the time suggested traversing north below the Powell/Eagle's Nest ridge and all the cliffs and rubble until you were directly below the low point of that connecting ridge, then to ascend up to the low point and scramble north along the ridge crest to Eagle's Nest. The problem is, from a vantage point well below that ridge, but still so close, it's impossible to tell where the "low point" is.

    Though we never could find the low point on the ridge, what we could see ahead of us were two prominent ridge-lines descending off the west flank of the ridge/peak, both of which seemed to offer some inviting tundra hiking for much of the way up toward the south ridge of the peak. So we headed toward the first green ridge and began hiking up. For a long time, we hiked up the steep ridge-line. It was never very difficult, but certainly steep. Most of it was covered in grass and tundra as we expected. After probably at least 800 feet of gain, we crossed to the north side of this grassy ridge and dropped into another fairly wide gully that was a combination of tundra and some loose rock. We followed this gully all the way to its head, which was probably not too far below the south ridge of the peak, but at the head, we were confronted by a sheer cliff directly ahead, or a stiff climb and perhaps technical on rock towards the ridge. Fortunately and almost miraculously, as we arrived at the base of the sheer cliff, a narrow, almost slot-canyon-like little couloir appeared to our left that gained about 100 vertical feet and led us to another ridge descending west off the main south ridge. The couloir was easy to negotiate and once out of it we almost immediately dropped over into another fairly wide gully that allowed further progress toward the south ridge. This gully was mostly broken rock, but footing was fairly secure. Toward the head of it, we veered right and scrambled up some nice rocks to the south ridge. 

    Once you gain the south ridge, you may want to mark that point for your return trip.  Headed north now, on up the south ridge. As our information said, the ridge was entertaining, but never intimidating. It still required quite a bit of time to make it to the summit. You may still need to gain 400 – 500 feet and cover more than a third of a mile to reach the summit. The ridge provides a number of interesting problems. There are slabs of rock to scamper up, outcrops to avoid or contour around, a minor cliff band, and plenty of broken stuff to hike over, but at the most, this ridge section is upper 2nd class work. The USGS map shows three possible summits for Eagle's Nest. The middle is the highest. When you arrive, you will enjoy impressive views of this more northern section of the Gores. For the return trip, we suggest going back as you came. More ambitious climbers may want to consider an ascent of three twelvers west of the "Grappel Pass" on the way back. Also, Dave Cooper lists the Eagle's Nest to Mt. Powell ridge connect as one of his "scramble routes." That traverse is lengthy and offers 3rd and 4th class work to reach Powell. There are also useful reports on 14ers.com and SummitPost.  


    Additional BETA

    Links to other information, routes & trip reports for this peak that may be helpful.
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